Deborah Dolen's Blog

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Chapter VIII by Deborah Dolen Methods of Distillation

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VIII Methods of Distillation

Standards and definitions regarding essential oils are defined best by NAHA. NAHA, pretty much the governing organization in Aromatherapy and defines an essential oil as the following:

"The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) in their Vocabulary of Natural Materials (ISO/D1S9235.2) defines an essential oil as follows: "An essential oil is a product made by distillation with either water or steam or by mechanical processing of citrus rinds or by dry distillation of natural materials. Following the distillation, the essential oil is physically separated from the water phase."

When making my own macerations, I will usually order in a professional grade essential oil from that same herb and compliment my blend with a little of the real stuff. Lavender would be a great example. Many lavender festivals grow their own, but often order out any lavender notes they cannot achieve or just for more supplies than they can grow.

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Sunday, July 31, 2011

Aromatherapy - IX by Deborah Dolen

Aromatherapy - Chapter IX by Deborah Dolen Attars, Compounds; Hydrosols by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

Once you learn the beauty of essential oils, you will learn about more affordable 'by products' of the manufacturing process. Run off water is known as a 'Hydrosol'. Examples are Rose Water, Lavender Water, Neroli and my personal favorites Roman Chamomile and Witch Hazel hydrosols. Hydrosols tend to run 10% the price of the actual oil, and a great way to experience an oil--such as Neroli and Chamomile, that are ordinarily cost prohibitive. I use hydrosols in componding skin toners, in some perfume formulas, in lotion and witch hazel for medicinal preparations.

SOURCES

Platto A. & Roberts D. (2001) The Aroma Quality of Lavender Water: a Comparative Study" Perf. & Flav. 26(3), 44-64]

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Aromatherapy - X by Deborah Dolen Top 12 Essential Oils

Aromatherapy - Chapter X by Deborah Dolen Top 12 Essential Oils

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter X Top Twelve Essential Oils Everyone lists their “top ten” differently--perhaps depending on what sells the most (could be what is most affordable), what they learned first, or simply what they can access easiest in their location. I can’t help it, these are twelve I depend on. I am delineating my 'Top Twelve’ based on what we will use the most in my daily life. Ones that do double and triple duty. You can bet Lavender, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus are on every list. Later we will get into exotic and interesting essential oils. This is just a list of my favorite primary essential oils, the ones I would want in my family medical bag, and their top contributions and attributes. Dosage and application will be in the next chapter.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Aromatherapy - Chapter XI by Deborah Dolen Cooking w/ Essential Oils

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XI by Deborah Dolen

Cooking with Essential Oils

Essentials in the Kitchen - Cooking with Essential Oils Most of our use in cooking with essential oils, such as Rose and/or Lavender Jelly, will simply be stirring them into salts, sugar, fats (such as butter, ice cream) and jellies. I feel this is the prudent way to become familiar with the use of essential oils in the kitchen as well as the most delicate approach to enjoying them. Keep in mind you will be using the amount on the end of a tooth pick for most.

*The recipes are in the book. They will not line up properly here anyway.

SOURCES
http://www.amazon.com/Deborah-Dolen/e/B00457BI2S
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/07/aromatherapy-chapter-xii-by-deborah.html
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/07/aromatherapy-xiii-by-deborah-dolen.html
http://open.salon.com/blog/deborah_dolen_1/2011/07/11/aromatherapy_-_chapter_i_-_by_deborah_dolen

Monday, July 11, 2011

Aromatherapy - Chapter XII by Deborah Dolen

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XII

Cleaning with Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

Cleaning with Essential Oils Cleaning with essential oils is a non-toxic way to clean the home while lifting your spirits at the same time! As we see below, the power and energy of an essential oil can be delivered through a variety of systems, alcohol (for disinfecting) and the most common cleaning medium-good old soap and water. Most products in the store shelves are not "soap" and you will not see the word "soap" on them. Some people even try to brand SLS as "natural soap" and it is not. As you may all be aware, I use my own organic liquid soap to clean almost everything.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Aromatherapy XIII by Deborah Dolen

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XIII by Deborah Dolen
Essential Oil Chemistry and Pharmaceuticals

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

How did essential oils become known for having particular medicinal qualities or target effects? Did someone sit around and think these up or just hand down stories from generation to generation? I wondered that myself because not one Aroma therapist I ever ran into would mention phenols, keytones or terms used in organic chemistry. It is very possible they avoided using “techno” words as not to open up the next question…what is a keytone, aldehyde? And so on. The truth is, essential oils are very much used in the world of pharmacy and most descriptions below were taken from a Merck Pharmaceutical manual! (1988 Merck Index Eleventh Ed.)

Monday, June 20, 2011

Deborah Dolen's Perfume Formula | Cashmere

Deborah Dolen's Cashmere Perfume Formula

Excerpt How to Make Perfume Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

This is a seductive arrangement reminiscent of Chopard's Casmir. Chopard's Casmir embraces oriental vanilla, mango and subtle spices. You can craft this with essential oil or fragrance oils - just try to stay within the boundaries of the ratios below. Fruits generally do not come in essential oil mediums. This is why I listed them as just fragrance oil below. You can add a few of your own notes in, I think incense is awesome as a note (if you have captured any incense by infusion) and potentially sandalwood. You can anchor with a drop of Bergamot, I chose not too.

5 drops of Mango or Peach fragrance oil

5 drops of Jasmine fragrance oil
4 drops of Musk fragrance oil

4 drops Coconut fragrance oil

3 drops Lilly of the Valley fragrance oil

2 drops Patchouli essential oil

2 drops Amber essential oil

2 drops Oriental Vanilla essential oil [Tahitian]
1 drop Cinnamon essential oil [Cassia is fine]
1 drop Allspice essential oil
1 drop Clove essential oil
1 drop Nutmeg essential oil

Since all of the top, middle and base notes are perfected above - this formula tolerates the addition of florals and other spices very well. So, if you want to add more florals or spices or a variety of them-you will probably end up with another designer scent.

When you feel you have a perfume expression you love, you can then drop it into ethanol or perfumers alcohol to a dilution ratio you are happy with. This is the best way to convert an oil based recipe to a water based recipe. This formula is so special I do not use it for room spray. I use it for myself, in my bath, body lotions and so on. I discuss perfume dilutions here, in Perfume Crafting, and how to make solid perfume here. Savannah Botanical Perfume Formula is here.

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